Surprisingly, despite having worked for the largest surf brands in the world, I’m not a fan of the water. I’m what the Swedish call a land crab or a tarmac tadpole. But that still doesn’t stop me from appreciating the ocean scape and those who ride mother natures greatest power. Be it riding the wave or the tarmac, there’s still a connection.
One recent film which captures not only the beauty of the water, but also the rich story of body surfing is Come Hell or High Water directed by Surfer Keith Malloy’s.
It documents the passion and progression of this surfing sub-culture and is an inspiring watch.